Nogaro, France… but sounds Japanese, right?
What an amazing day! 32 km of beauty. From Montreal to Eauze the were 18 km of flat paths, but the trees canopies, were designed to protect the “Pelerins” during their journey. At 6am, I was on the road. It was a little dark, very difficult to see the “chesmin” markers. Early in the morning was so much noise in the woods; deers, foxes, birds, and frogs. The fog was dense, but charming. I know that I was walking in wine country. There were vineyards every where. The grapes were not ready, but they looked from a magazine for the fall.
I want to get into Eauze in 4 hours, mass would be at 10:30. I got on time. I entered the first bakery on my path and ordered fresh chocolatinne. It is very popular in France with a cup of coffee. After, I hit to the village center and there was market day next to the church. I walked around, recorded a video, took picts. Then I went in to the church. I introduced my self to the two ladies by the altar: cantor and organist. They sent me to the sacristy. It was full of men around 10, talking laud. Again, I introduced myself, and asked if I could concelebrate. The priest did not say a word. He was retired, and was like covering for the pastor. He was getting dressed in a new chasuble, out of the plastic bag on the sound system . One of the deacons, in broken English, ask me to accompany him to the next room, but they did not have an extra alb. Therefore, I said that it would be ok, if I just sit with the congregation. You know, I have my backpack, walking sticks, and loaf of bread hanging from the back, ha! I just needed wine, that I could get at the market outside.
The prelude started, when omg, the organist was playing Christmas music: who child is this, I think. Well it was going to be interesting. You can see my video in Instagram. Mass went as usual, but at the end the other deacon called a young couple forward with a baby girl, and half of the Church came forward too. It was a presentation: baby, parents, two male godparents. The deacon signed the baby with a sign of the cross in the forehead, and after parents, and godparents, the whole family.
The priest gave the final blessing, and went back to the sacristy.
Ok, going to mass was 4 km, but I made 6 in 45 min… in other words I was on schedule. There was nothing to see from Eauze to Manciet, a very poor village. When an act of charity enlighten my day. In the middle of nowhere there was a picnic table, and a little girls called Eva, around 10 years old, run from a house to offer me a cold glass of water. It was around 2:30pm, and it was very hot. I said of course! She had coffee, hot water for tea, and sodas in a fridge. I had my lunch there. I asked her I she wanted anything. She asked me for my a piece of my aromatic salami. I cut a big piece for her, and she ate so fast.
Now, she spoke French, English and Spanish. She knew were Puerto Rico was, because she goes to the Caribbean to the French islands every year. I don’t know how she was there, but she told me she was visiting a friend. Another pelerin came and sit with us too. It was time for me to continue, I said good bye, tipped her with 3eur and another kid came.
Now after lunch was time to hit the paths, and fast… I needed to make it to Nogaro by 4:30pm. At 2km from Nogaro, it smell like Butchertown, on pork high demand, but the smell went away by the noisy car races at the Nogaro speedway. The noise broke the beauty of the place, worst that the butchers smell. These were the most noisy races that I had heard. I could see the cars racing from the hills.
I arrived to the gite, and it was getting full of families, but there was a place for me. I got my bed, took a shower, washed my cloths, and cooked. After eating, I hit the center village, and had two Monacos with Chris.
Tomorrow is the last day for Chris. He will return to Germany by bus and trains. By now, I am the only survivor from Le Puy. I think Cecile and Julien are a day behind.
(Please forgive my typos, I doing this before bed time.)
I am 50 km from Lourdes, France. I am tempted to visit the grotto day after tomorrow. It is out of the Chemin, therefore I may take the bus, and return to the path. I am ahead of my schedule, and I have plenty time…