Lourdes, France

The bus to Tarbes departed from Aire-sur-L’Adour at 5:55am. I was the only passenger for around 10 villages in a giant valley. The bus driver spoke to me in broken English. He was from Macedonia. He asked me where I was from, and omg, he could not stop talking about salsa, merengue, and Puerto Rican ladies. He made me laughed. Around 30 minutes later, a lovely lady dressed in blue boarded the bus. She showed her card to the bus driver. He was having some problems with her rate, and after couple minutes she had to pay what the computer said. She sat at the back of the bus. We passed other 4 villages, and arrived to Tarbes. In our arrival, I said Thank you to the bus driver, when from the back of the bus the lady said: Do you need any help? Wow, she spoke perfect English. We chatted couple minutes at the bus station. She was from Paris. I told her that I was walking El Camino, and she was pleased that I was going to Lourdes. There are surprises everywhere!

The temperature dropped like 10 degrees. I was on my shorts and shirt. I have a sweater in my backpack, but I was not expecting this change in the weather so drastic.

A young man with some kind of neurological challenges approach me. He was sent from heaven!He sat next to me and only spoke French to me, until he opened a metal box where he saved his cell phone and started using his translator. He never abandon me. He talked to me about the Blessed Mother, the miracle medal, and his love for Lourdes. He looked so happy.

I am on the bus to Lourdes. It was only 2 Euros. The bus driver had some funky music on. Many young people took the bus to Lourdes. Arriving to Lourdes the young man told me to follow the blue line painted on the sidewalk. He was like 50 feet in front of me, but he was making signals with his hands where to turn. It was so cool. I stopped couple times to take picts, and he would stop too. I saw the office for pelerins. I went in to get my Lourdes stamp, when the young man was behind me at the office . He told the lady on the desk that he was helping me.

We entered the sanctuary of Lourdes by the main entrance. The French Way! No many people. The tourists use the side door, close to church, where the buses stop. See picts on Instagrams.

I was impress to see how many hotels and religious stores are at the entrance of the sanctuary. They were all opened, but emptied. I proceed to the property. It is impressive to see so many volunteers dressed as nurses in the 50’s. They were pushing people in wheelchairs. It was more than 1,000 people there. A large Italian delegation was visiting the sanctuary, and masses in Italian were been celebrated in all the chapels. There was an Italian cardinal celebrating mass outside to the left of the main chapel, another mass in Italian was been celebrated at the grotto.

I walked all the property. There was a large building for everything: A building for notarization of Miracles, a build for confession (priests outside waiting), a large building for candle offerings (all sizes- all prices). They have a whole wall for water distribution, which you can buy bottles of all sizes outside the sanctuary. I just prayed for the broken world, our nation, and our parish. I passed water on my feet blisters to finish El Camino. There was people drinking, bathing, doing all kind of personal devotions with the water. I just thought, how easier would it be if we love one another.

Many people from India may peregrinations to the sanctuary. They were a very visible majority. Priests and nuns taking picts everywhere.

I decided to go out of the sanctuary for lunch, and I had the first Ice cream in a month!

Coming back to Tarbes, I came in the train. It was 2 Euros more expensive than the bus, but faster. Arriving in Tarbes, I lost my bus by 10 minutes, now I had to wait 4 hours for the next bus to Aire-sur-l’Adour. Any way I charged my phone at the train station. It helped me to take a nap, when a women with mental problems arrived with two big bags of trash and sat across from me. There was a big cookie on the floor, she picked up and ate it as the best dessert. Then she started talking to me in French like my best friend. I put my Latin music on my cell, and she was happy talking to herself. Later a young man from London join us. He was a biker, and was here to see the tour of France that started couple days ago from this area. He just finished his ba in psychology and was going back to school in the fall. He was very joyful and has great dreams to travel America in the future. He wants to bike from Maine to Florida, Florida to Vancouver, and other areas.

This train station reminded me of a Mercedes Sosa’s song.

There is a group of workers putting together a kiosk at the “gare”. They were noisy.

There was a piano at the “gare”. Oh my! Every 3-5 minutes some one played it. It was not till 4:00pm when this man started playing Jazz. I said: where is my sax? I have to get closer. I closed my eyes, and enjoyed the concert. After he played, I thank him for the great music. His name was Jean Louis. He had lived in California. He was going to the best jazz Fest in the area that is happening these days. We had one of the most amazing conversation over everything: the world, the human race, American politics, human compassion, the Catholic Church, the Holy Father, and other topics. He was very educated in all the matters, even he accepted that he was not a religious person.

I am on my way back to Aire-sur-L’Adour. When I arrived, I stopped in a great food store and got something for dinner. Isabelle and Alejandro, my hosts, are amazing cooks. But they prepare the same plate every night. They let me use their kitchen to cook my white rice. The gite was full. I cooked and sat with other guests at the table to eat. The group was smaller last night. But we were more talkative, because we spoke different languages.

Cecile reached the village today. She is staying at the same place. It is great that we are walking the same path tomorrow morning, although the every person must walk on his/her own. Tomorrow will be 38km. Good night!

Aire-sur-l’Adour

A small village of 6,000 people divided in two by the Adour river. It will be the last of the more populated villages before crossing the Pyrenees. It has been 20 days of this amazing journey. Now the body has adapted to the adventure!

Tomorrow will be my first day off, a rest to my mind and feet. I will go to visit Lourdes, France on a bus. Now that I am here, it is better to go on El Camino. I will return to Aire-sur-l’Adour in the afternoon to continue to the Pyrénées. I am 5-6 day to reach Spain.

Today I started the day as usual. Four ladies were already dressed and ready to go by the door. I drink my first bottle of water as soon as I wake up. Try it! You will notice a difference in your morning energy.

You can ask the two ladies that stayed behind the other two, when nature called them. I passed them, as if I was not there. Going down the hill I saw the other two around 900 meters ahead. They turned to the right, then when I turned, they were coming back. They noticed that the farmers had planted sunflowers on the path. No way to go through. I just kept walking on the side of the road. The traffic was heavy. Heavy trucks and cars started stopping from both side, to let us pass. It was a pelerin’s chaos.

After that everything was normal. There was a section of the path that included 6 km in a flat stretch of a corn field. It is like one hour and a half walking. It was hot as hell today!

I found Chris in the middle of the corn field resting. I stopped, had a sip of water and we continue to the village of Barcelonne du-Gers. Chris invited me for a coffee, I just needed a beer. We passed the first groceries store, but we continue to the center of the village. There we found an amazing country store, run by an English man. The buffet was divine. They had chicken wings like at the Back Door, but they were eating the fried duck!
It is a delicatessen in this part of France. I have eaten it four times. We did not eat there, because we have one more hour to walk. I was disappointed. The place was full.

We entered Aire-sur-l’Adour as expected. I stopped by the pharmacy to get my feet tape, and other items. Chris went to the Cathedral. I reached him there and said good bye. He was returning to Germany today. I went to my gite. It was like walking home. Alejandro greeted me in Spanish. An we talked for almost an hour. He says it is hard for him to find people that speak Spanish in the area. He is originally from Valencia, Spain.

I went up took a shower, washed my cloths, and Alejandro invited me for a beer. I rubbed my feet with all the wood feet toys in the reception area.

I went to the tourism office in town to get the bus schedule for Lourdes. Later I stopped at the pub in the entrance of town where all the pelerins gather in the afternoon. I ordered a Monaco. The official drink of this trip, because is so refreshing, and go well with the heat. Suddenly I saw Chris, he could not leave town, because he will have to take the bus tomorrow morning. He stopped and he drank a Monaco too.

It was time for me to return to the gite for the communal dinner. Yum, yum, yum garlic soup with ham, first dish. I ate two bowls! Then a lentil dish with pork. Bread bread bread!!! Everything is eaten with bread in France. It is the best bread in the world. It is customary in France to serve a cheeses plate during dinner, and then a wonderful pineapple dessert was served.

The pelerins were from France, Portugal, Austria, Switzerland, and me. We spoke five languages at the table. It was a blessing! We finished dinner with tea or coffee.

Lourdes tomorrow…

Nogaro, France… but sounds Japanese, right?

What an amazing day! 32 km of beauty. From Montreal to Eauze the were 18 km of flat paths, but the trees canopies, were designed to protect the “Pelerins” during their journey. At 6am, I was on the road. It was a little dark, very difficult to see the “chesmin” markers. Early in the morning was so much noise in the woods; deers, foxes, birds, and frogs. The fog was dense, but charming. I know that I was walking in wine country. There were vineyards every where. The grapes were not ready, but they looked from a magazine for the fall.

I want to get into Eauze in 4 hours, mass would be at 10:30. I got on time. I entered the first bakery on my path and ordered fresh chocolatinne. It is very popular in France with a cup of coffee. After, I hit to the village center and there was market day next to the church. I walked around, recorded a video, took picts. Then I went in to the church. I introduced my self to the two ladies by the altar: cantor and organist. They sent me to the sacristy. It was full of men around 10, talking laud. Again, I introduced myself, and asked if I could concelebrate. The priest did not say a word. He was retired, and was like covering for the pastor. He was getting dressed in a new chasuble, out of the plastic bag on the sound system . One of the deacons, in broken English, ask me to accompany him to the next room, but they did not have an extra alb. Therefore, I said that it would be ok, if I just sit with the congregation. You know, I have my backpack, walking sticks, and loaf of bread hanging from the back, ha! I just needed wine, that I could get at the market outside.

The prelude started, when omg, the organist was playing Christmas music: who child is this, I think. Well it was going to be interesting. You can see my video in Instagram. Mass went as usual, but at the end the other deacon called a young couple forward with a baby girl, and half of the Church came forward too. It was a presentation: baby, parents, two male godparents. The deacon signed the baby with a sign of the cross in the forehead, and after parents, and godparents, the whole family.

The priest gave the final blessing, and went back to the sacristy.

Ok, going to mass was 4 km, but I made 6 in 45 min… in other words I was on schedule. There was nothing to see from Eauze to Manciet, a very poor village. When an act of charity enlighten my day. In the middle of nowhere there was a picnic table, and a little girls called Eva, around 10 years old, run from a house to offer me a cold glass of water. It was around 2:30pm, and it was very hot. I said of course! She had coffee, hot water for tea, and sodas in a fridge. I had my lunch there. I asked her I she wanted anything. She asked me for my a piece of my aromatic salami. I cut a big piece for her, and she ate so fast.

Now, she spoke French, English and Spanish. She knew were Puerto Rico was, because she goes to the Caribbean to the French islands every year. I don’t know how she was there, but she told me she was visiting a friend. Another pelerin came and sit with us too. It was time for me to continue, I said good bye, tipped her with 3eur and another kid came.

Now after lunch was time to hit the paths, and fast… I needed to make it to Nogaro by 4:30pm. At 2km from Nogaro, it smell like Butchertown, on pork high demand, but the smell went away by the noisy car races at the Nogaro speedway. The noise broke the beauty of the place, worst that the butchers smell. These were the most noisy races that I had heard. I could see the cars racing from the hills.

I arrived to the gite, and it was getting full of families, but there was a place for me. I got my bed, took a shower, washed my cloths, and cooked. After eating, I hit the center village, and had two Monacos with Chris.

Tomorrow is the last day for Chris. He will return to Germany by bus and trains. By now, I am the only survivor from Le Puy. I think Cecile and Julien are a day behind.

(Please forgive my typos, I doing this before bed time.)

I am 50 km from Lourdes, France. I am tempted to visit the grotto day after tomorrow. It is out of the Chemin, therefore I may take the bus, and return to the path. I am ahead of my schedule, and I have plenty time…

Montrèal, France…

I started at 7am. Annie, from Bordeaux,my roommate woke up a 5:30am like me, but it was raining hard. She went back to bed. Chris woke up at 6:00 and the rain stopped. I drank my bottle of water, and started the day. Because of the rain, there was a lot of mud. It was not fun taking it out of the sandals several times. By the 10 km started to rain again. I put my rain coat on, but I was more wet inside because the heat that because the rain.

When I arrived to the city of Condom, What? Yes, you read it, CONDOM is a city in France, the rain had stopped. I entered the first bakery and bought a sandwich and coffee. I saved half of the sandwich for lunch.

I kept walking, with a good speed. At 2pm, I arrived to my destination for the day: Montreal, Fr. It is small village, and there is a village party tonight. The town is getting full right now.

I got to my gite, and took a shower, washed my cloths, and went shopping for Sunday and Monday food. Nothing is opened those days. A potato, can of shrimps, rice bag, orange, candies -hehehe, a beer, and a can of calamari. I need a lot of protein…

Before my arrival to Condom, I met Oliver. He is from the Czech Republic. He has been walking for 3months, 1 day on his way to Santiago. I passed me very fast. I entered the city of Condom, and Chris was having a coffee in the main plaza. The city was full of young people. There is a tennis tournament going on for a week. A priest walking by the middle of the street passed by me. I am sure he was from another exFrench colony in Africa, as all the priests that I have met. I entered the main church took picts, went to the tourism office and got my stamp, and leave town as I entered at light speed.

During shopping in Montreal, Oliver invited me for dinner. He cooked a Czech pasta dish for Chris, he and me. It was delicious.

Before dinner, I went for a city walk. The local church was opened, and emptied. I was in the need to pray. I went to the blessed sacrament, and chanted some repetitive scripture phrases. After an hour, I felt energized!

Well now I have to go to the street party. It is good to taste the flavor of town.

Lectoure: good byes, nee friends…

Today I had to say good buy to Cecile. She was meeting her grandparents. Therefore, Julian and I continue to the next village. Following the street = white/red signs, we went out the city. With made us around the city to the south west entrance of the city. The signs were very clear, but took us back up the hill where we just started. Mmmmmm. It was not fun. But we saw the ancient city castle with a magnificent view of he valley. Therefore we decided to to have lunch. Julian decided to take a nap. I just started walking again. When back down the hill, I found the exit. Two city exit signs converged in one point like a T at the south bridge that will rake is to the new path.

I arrived to La Romieu around 6:30pm. There were only three of us. Annie from Bordeaux, who is walking her second day. Chris, a German man who has been staying at the same places with me for the last 4 days.

I cooked my dinner, next to Annie. She has pasta and tuna. I had veggies with Latin rice, a can of octopus, and salad.

After dinner I went to the village center. The streets were full of people. There was a big choir performance at the church. I would say, 500 farmers came out with their best cloths. It was a designers night! I sat outside at a bar to watch the scene. Chris joined me. We have couple drinks and talked about our families. I ate a dessert, and went back to the gitè. On my way back, I entered the church and took several pictures. It transformed to the XVI century.

Moissac on the Feast of St. James

It was 5:30 am when I woke up. I protected my feet, and went on the march. Leaving the village was tricky. If I follow GR-65 my route, will take 3km to leave town. If I follow the cars road, it will be only one mile. I decided to go by the dirt road, around orchids, and fruits plantations, down the creek, and up the vineyard. When three dogs decided to join me, they were having fun, as they party all night. Tongs out, and big smiles. They vanished as they came. From there it was all flat roads for 6 kms. Then the descending moment came, no problems with the feet, but I was cover in chiggers. Chiggers, in France? Oh yeah!, and there are nastier. They had a party over me, like a bunch of drunks after the bachelor party. I was covered in bumps from toes to head.

The walk was beautiful, until I got into a junky property 10 kms of Moissac. It was like war zone, three wild dogs chained with heavy chains, signs everywhere advertising food, drinks, and massages. Who in the world will stop there, I thought. I was so disappointed of that section. The rest was awesome. I ascended the hill, and the beauty of God was in esplendor.

Moissac is a big agricultural valley. All the plantations are covered with nets, and you can see them from the distance.

I arrived to Moissac at 9:30 am. I stopped at the garden shop, to get something for the chiggers, but there was nothing there. Half kilometer down the road was a groceries store. I bought a bottle of ammonia, main ingredient, in Afterbite medication, and my lunch for tomorrow.

Entering the historical center of town, a nun greeted me, like she knew me from years. She asked me if I was going to Compostela and she asked me if a wanted the Pelerins blessing today. It was around 10:45am. And she said, it was better to hurry up, because St. James procession would start at 11am. Now, she made me run. In the mini, I told her that I was a priests, in 5 minutes I was dressed, and next to St. James relic. A priest from Vietnam, presided the procession and mass. You can see videos in Instagram:wherespadre. After mass, I went to the welcoming center of pelerins. It was fabulous! The people was so welcoming and charming. They helped me to heal my chiggers with ammonia, stamped my credential, and set a table for two in front of the office. A wonderful woman, collected flowers from the garden, and set them on the table, where I had lunch with Julian.

Julian started El Camino the same day as me. He only has 10 more day of vacation to reach St. Jean the Port. As I ate with Julian, Cecile showed up. She was a day behind. We all stayed at the ancient Carmel, now a gite d’etape.

When I arrived at the gite, I showed my chigger bites to the staff to prevent a infestation. A female worker, recognized them, and she was so sweet to helped me all the afternoon, to wash and dry my cloths, disinfected my backpack, and get for me used clean cloths. The funny part come now. I did not have a problem with the shirt, but the pants! Mmmm, no way. When I opened it, they were pants, but the end will look like skirt. Ha!

She laughed, and got for me a big white towel. I was in it until my cloths dried, around 6:30pm.

Julian, Cecile, two other girls, and I were to a artisan pizza place in the center of the village. An yes, they had my preferred pizza, anchovies and olives. Yum! Yum! And of course, two Monacos, please…

After dinner we went our own ways, I decided to go to the dance behind the abbey. I recorded a great video, but my cell did not safe it, because of short space in memory. Sorry that you cannot see it on Instagram.

Tomorrow will be a long march. Sleep well tonight, and send your donation to Save the Steeples at St. Joseph 1406 East Washington St.

Lauzerte: French Tuscany

It was a day of surprises. As I started my walk earlier, the silence of the village (Montcuq) penetrated in my mind. There were moments were memories of the past would wash my dirty cloths of life. In couple moments, I coughs my self in tears. No sure where they came from, I just let them be free and keep walking.

There was a moment where I panic for several miles. When you walk by yourself, you don’t know what is there waiting for you. After 7 kms, and at the speed I was walking, I was scared by a man smoking a cigarette under a fig tree. I kept walking. I did not know who he was. He must left the village before me to be there. I walked as light speed. It had never happened before. There were many difficult descending trails, until I arrived to a beautiful chapel. The door was opened. I just let there door opened half way to take a pict. (See picture in Instagram) When I turned around, I gave a jump, the man was standing behind me. OMG! I just took the picture, and kept walking as fast as I could. It must happened close to Roiullac. As I entered the next village of Montlauzun, the man already reached me. He spoke English to me. He said he was from Austria. He asked me if it was my first Camino. I answered, yes, it is. No more verbal contact. I just walked parallel to him on the other side of the road. We went down the hill, following the white-red marks on the road poles. After 3 kms, he was 200 meters ahead of me. Suddenly, he screamed to me that that was not the trail, because there was an X white and red, and not the parallel sign =. He told me that he would continue on that road. I had two options: go back to the village that we just passed, or turn to the left direct to the corn field. There was small path there. I just did that, when suddenly by the creek was a small bridge with the = in white-red. I keep going. I never saw the man again. There were more hills to conquest, and the topography of the region changed. It was a new country, like being in Tuscany for second time. I entered a field of cantaloupes. It was harvest. There were so many fruits, cherrie tres already harvested, sun flowers in bloom facing east, nuts trees well planted, tomatoes, pimentos, sweet corn, and etc. As I gave a 90 degrees turn to the right. I founded a tall umbrella, and under it, a table with two wood boxes full of cantaloupes, a big kitchen knife, and a box for donations. I said, yes! I peeled one and ate it. It was sweet like a “sugar mama” watermelon from NC.

The sun was hitting me strong today, but there are villages that care for the well being of the pelerins. They plant trees close to the path, to make it shaded. You know what villages care, good trees, good signs. There are others that have been in decay, there fore the signs too.

I found a beautiful church, because of its simplicity. An altar, a chair, a cross, and a Christ in wood. The Holy water stone was dried. I just pour my bottle of water on it, and blessed. There are other more thirsty for Christ, I thought.

Now I am approaching the medieval city of Lauzerte. It was magestic from the distance at the top of the hill. It is unique, but for travelers, imagine Toledo in Spain or Siena in Italy. Wow! At the base of the hill, I did groceries for lunch and dinner, and shopping at the pharmacy for good feet tape. It was time to enter the city, the Camino way, and it was. A rocky path straight up to the city. I think I am become an expert on this matters, haha! As I entered the main plaza, it attracted me one corner of the plaza, was changed by an artist, and looked like the plaza was going on the air. I looked around, took pictures, and… No way the Austrian man of early in the morning was sitting having a beer in a local there. Again, I just kept walking. To descend, I had to go to the southwest side of the city. There was a nice area to eat my lunch. There was a local young man cleaning the area, but he was fine that I ate my lunch there. I descended by the concrete stairs. What a beautiful city to live! From there it was 12 more kms to Durfort-Lacapelette, a very hot small village. I spent the night here.

Tomorrow, I will reach Moissac, just 20 kms.

Cahors II: conquest of fears

I was thinking to take the day off, and I woke up at 8:00am. I ate some bread with marmalade, and three glasses of milk. I departed toward Cahors downtown. The tourism office was opened, and I bought the new map book for my second part of France: Cahors to Rocevaux.

Yesterday was a deep descending, which mentally I was prepared to ascend today in a nice way. Crossing the bridge of Cahors to follow the path, there were two ways, a small road following the Lot river or a rock wall. I follow the white red signs as usual , when I saw a set of carved steps on the rock wall with no handles. OMG! Jesús, Mary, and Joseph! Really? I just offered myself to God, after all these kilometers, and now this. I am not going to stop now, I said. I accommodated my backpack, and hold to my walking sticks to get momentum. Step by step. I could not look back or down. The road was behind/ under me. I know the view was beautiful, but I would not look back to take a picture. No way! I keep going up, I had to go on my knees on the last two steps. It was frightening. I did not want to loose my walking sticks. I sweated like a horse winning the Kentucky Derby. OMG! (I cannot imagine doing it going down.) I would not do it!

There were small villages in between Cahors and Montcuq. Lascabans called my attention, because the sweet fragrance on the air. It was unique. I asked many residents, but they could not tell me. There were many sunflowers plantations in the area. The fields looked like ladies in green dresses wearing yellow hats. I love it! There was a little kiosk at the end of the village, where I sat down to drink two pellegrino waters. The best to drink when you walk long distances.

I forgot to tell you about my friend Cecile. Here we walk independently. Every one goes their own speed, and everyone stay in whatever gite is available. Therefore, no one set schedules or places to stay. Each person start at different hours. It is your own Camino. After starting late, and ascending from hell, Cecile was coming up after me. I asked her what happened, she just said that she started at 10 am this morning. She is having problems with her legs, as everyone else. She had to stop twice today, I just had to keep going. She is fast, I was sure she will reach me at some point.

I had lunch with Cecile and Julian. We shared what we had in our bags. I only had a can of mix vegetables and peanuts. Julian had nothing. Therefore, Cecile was our provider. We ate bread with chocolate, and bananas. I started to put turmeric to my water reserve. It is amazing for inflammation.

Tonight I stayed in a gite very interesting, well the owner was a character. He spoke very fast French, and English too. He let me use his kitchen and anything in the pantry. There was a blessing here. The owner had everything, all natural, no preserves, all spices around the world, especially from Nepal. In addition, he is a vegan, no meat today. I was selective in the pantry. I went for pasta, and tomato pure. With the spices it will taste from heaven. I made a tomato sauce with milk, and the spices. There was nothing left. The owner offered me a glass of wine, when I was cooking. Then I bought a German beer for my dinner.

Now it is time to go to bed!

Cahors: the butterflies and the black wine

It was 5:50 am, when I leave Varaire. I had to use my flash to take a picture as I walked out of town. The morning was cold. I decided to used a pair of compression socks that Mary Lee gave me for the trip. They did not covered the toes. The morning transported me to a chill Christmas morning in Puerto Rico.

I have learned to walk on the grass patches on the path. It is like shock absorbers for the many rocks on the way. The grass was wet today, therefore, with the cold temperature I felt that Zi would get a toe frostbite! I walked half of the 32kms by 9am. It was a flat path, no ups no downs.

When I reach 18 kms, I had to walked in a small country road, when suddenly, around 10 cars passed me at the speed of Catholics leaving church after communion. Couple kilometers later, they were all setting the tents and weapons in a field to go skunk hunting with their dogs.

There was not water during this stage. I have to buy a big bottle of water yesterday and carried it the whole time, which I drank before 2pm.

Nine kms from Cahors, a ballet of light purple butterflies danced for me. I was getting tired, and hit a bush. They all came out and surround me. It was like a Garcia Marquez’ book. They were light purple, but if you look carefully, they had a orange dot at the end of their wings.

I saw four deers today early in the morning. Deers in France are small, dark brown color, and very fast. No good for Picts.

At one point of the walk, a group of girls riding horses passed me. They were singing songs, and stopped at my encounter. I encourage them to keep singing. After laughing, they sang!

Close to Cahors became very arid and dried. The temperature rose, and it was very unpleasant to walk. I knew I was only 3 km from Cahors, when I saw the city in a big valley. Ouch!, I said. I am having problems descending on left ankle and right knee. I had to be creative. It was a deep slope. I even walked backwards to make the descending lest painful.

As I entered town, I was very unsecured where to stay, therefore I sat down by the Lot river, for the four time! After 30 minutes, I started walking toward the “gite.” The place was closed. Therefore, I sat under a big fig tree on a bench. Hortense showed up and pulled the cable from the tinny bell, and immediately a man came down and opened the door for us. Hortense’s husband, Arnoud, came after. They are an amazing couple that live in Africa. Arnoud is in the French Army. We introduced each other. And when I told them that I was a priest, Arnoud laughed and told me that he has two brothers priests. They invited me to go with them to The Cathedral at 6:30pm. We arrived early and walked downtown Cahors before mass. The cathedral is very old, and need a lot of repairs. Two priests from Senegal were at mass. I got my Camino Stamp for the day at the Cathedral. I concelebrated there and we returned to the gite.

Dinner was delicious! We have some zucchini-rice casserole with pork duck sausages, and of course black wine. Well know in the region. It is normal to pay after dinner. When my turned came to pay, the house master informed that I was free. I was embarrassed. Therefore, I thanked all the guests.

Varaire: walk with your pains…

Leaving Cajarc was easy, but I stopped to read my map. I just wanted to be sure. I passed by the doors of the beautiful church that was in front of my window last night. Cajarc is in a valley, therefore I was expecting a brutal ascending soon, and there it was. Cecile decided to wear her flip flops, yeah! I think she was laughing of everybody. How can she do that? Any way, I have discovered that it is not about the shoes, the cloths or the fancy equipment for hiking, it is all about attitude! The attitude we have in life to overcome any pain or obstacle. This is innate in us, and I do not understand with some people reach for it their whole life. I believed it needs to be exercised. As any human skill.

The region that I covered today was desolate. A fungus infection in the 1800’s killed all there grape vines. People moved away. Now there is gold! It is truffle territory. A pound of truffles can cost $2500 dollars. But as in every business, there is a mafia behind. The local grocery owners told me that not everyone can search for them. It is exclusively owned, and you must inherit the land. The area was humid, perfect for fungi. All the trees were covered in moss as the rocks. It looked like a fantasy land of fairies.

I got a room in a local “gite” in Varaire. I prepared myself my dinner, a chicken sandwich. After going for groceries at the local village. I got turmeric in powder to help me with the inflammation on my left ankle. I just put it in water and my food.

I met Harry from London, and Elizabeth from Germany today. Harry offered me some pomade for the inflammation, and it worked instantly. It is call the “Baume du Pelerins”. I am sure I am going to buy couple tubes at the next village. Elizabeth and I were in the kitchen preparing dinner together. She has been doing the Camino from Germany, and she likes to work to pay her room, but southern France culture has not been helping her. She asked if I had any sweets. I told her, of course, I have fig cookies. She thank me the whole night for it. Her feet were in bad shape, therefore she socked them in warm water and cooking salt.

My routine when I arrived to the “gite” is simple: 1. Take a shower, 2. Wash dirty cloths. 3. Eat, and 4. SPA your feet with everything you have: olive oil, arnica, analgesic, massage then deeply.

Tomorrow is going to be a long day to Cohors, 32 kms. I will start at 6:00am. Good night!

Cajarc: bringing the world together.

Today, I woke up at 5:00am, but took me 30 minutes to put my socks on. The burning pain of my ankles dominated my mind all morning. I though I would not walk 3km, one of these days that you fell going nowhere. Then it became an amazing day. I made it fast, between ups and large downs. Passing Figeac, a big ascension was waiting for me. The pain on my ankles was out of control, the analgesic “pomade” was not working, the ibuprofen was not hitting the muscles. Suddenly, at half of the hill, I heard Cecile: Padre! I met Cecile, the first day I arrived to Lyon, at the train station. She is a welder by profession, and had learned English, when she worked in New Zealand.

She is a fast walker. She has been ahead of my for 2 days, but don’t know how, there she was passing me again. Two young kids in their teens passed me immediately. I would see them here and there, sitting on the road, eating, drinking and laughing, as they always do.

Then I entered Faycelles, an enchanted village with very warm people. Love the simplicity of the village, and the old character of the small houses. There were three houses for sale on my path. I had to enter the church. Doors opened! (See Picts on Instagram account). The Church was built same years as St. Joseph, and consecrated the same year.

I stopped a local bar to buy an Orangina, as soon as I opened it I was covered on bees! I did not what to do. I just kept drinking it until one bee fell on the bottle.

I kept walking for 15 km when I started felling thirsty. There are not sources of potable water in this region. Then God sent me a gift, thousands of prune trees on the path. I was tempted, I tasted, delicious! Then thousands of figs trees with fruits appeared! I felt in paradise! The trees were taller than peaches trees.

After ten more km, Cecile was finishing her lunch. She asked me about my ankles. Then she said: that pain is normal, just walk the fast you can. Really? That is the solution to the pain. I listened to her, did 30 more km following here., at light speed!

I am amazed to see people of all ages doing this journey, when we reach the village of Grealou, I had to pause. A mother with three girls having a picnic under a pine tree. I said: no way! Well there was a car close by, and I thought how great a mother to bring the girls to the park to greet Pelerins.

Cecile and I went to the local park to refill our bottles of water, then continue the last 17kms for the day. And then from no where, I saw the mother and two daughters walking behind us, I asked Cecile, where not they four? Cecile said, look at her back! What? They walked with us for 10 kms, faster like a gazelles flock. Their names Atis, Flora, Luna, and Mila. Mom was carrying the baby in her back, her back pack on her chest and a shopping bag in her right hand. They were not wearing hiking shoes, but sandals. They were from Belgium, walking El Camino. They stopped to feed the baby, and of course, the natural way. We have to continue without them. Cajarc was not showing up on our path. It was 5:30pm. When arrived to the village, there was a big Africajarc Festival. The village was very alive and African booths and music was coming from everywhere. Because was not room in town, we were picked up by our host. We had a great dinner. Here in southern France to eat private homes is like to eat at a fancy restaurant for 12 Eur. Bernadette was good cook or I was hungry. We ate at the dining table, because was raining outside. Bernadette’s granddaughter was watching children programs on a near computer. I brushed my teeth after dinner and went to bed. It is 3:20 am, I was waked up by itching feet, ouch!

Decazeville

I decided to eat breakfast at the abbey in Conques, which put me 2 hours behind schedule. Leaving Conques is a descending path. Going through the village, I saw a fig on the ground. My eyes went up immediately. This fig tree had gigs the size of my hands. I must have one, I said. I hit one with my walking sticks. It was sweet like honey. Then the ascending begun again, this time passing by the chapel of St. Foy.

The village of Conques was under the fog.

The stones on this path were unique. It was a soft stone, and they invited you you put your feet on them. You can see how the stones have adjusted to the people’s feet, and I knew where to put my feet without excitation. I arrived to Decazeville 7 hours later. The Gite manager welcome me with water and three favor syrup to refresh a tired walker.

The place is great for resting. It is located in a very death sector of the village, but good for the manager for welcoming people with so cordial spirit. Now, there are a lot of mosquitoes here, and it is very hot. From Le Puy to Conques, flies all because the cows.

Conques: death, lost, destruction, and drama.

Leaving early in the morning as usual, to discover a group people that park their cars 200 meters from the next village, to get a new stamp for the Compostela credencial. They don’t walk through the hills, they just come for the stamps. Here or there, they are everywhere!

It was a beautiful morning, and for the first time I saw vineyards on the hills close to Espeyrac

It was not the until I started seeing death birds on my path. I was seriously concerned. What is going on? I started noticing that it has been a long time since some one has been on this path. But the signs on the trees where there as normal. As I am always ascending or descending from village to village, I have to look carefully the mark on the treen. St, Jacques are white-red. In occasions will be yellow-red for other “Chemin.” The St. Jaques disappeared after I passed La Vernhe. It was passing two pages of my map book. I never saw the town of Senergues. I kept walking for 8 hours, until I found my self in St. Sulpice, 10 kms north of Conques, my final destination. On my ascending I saw a young family hiking with their two children. No idea from where they came from. In desperation, I just sat down to eat my lunch, break and salmon with an apple. Suddenly, I hear many children laughing. They were kayaking on the Lot river. That gave me hope. I was short of water, until I saw the first house. A man in his mid 40’s was repairing his car. I said: bonjour, je sui perdu. He offered me to enter into his house and gave me the biggest bottle of water, I have seen. I took it and continue walking to St. Sulpice. I cross the river, when a women in her 70’s wanted to help me. She was walking. She was waiting for her three girl friends that we’re rehearsing for a choir performance last night. She wanted her friends to take me to Conques, but there was not space in the car for all of us. A man biking approached us and started a conversation with us. He said that he has done “El Camino” six years ago. He did the “north way” on his bike. I have to keep going. It was 2:30pm. I was 10 kms away, which meant 3 hours walking for me. I went up the hill, all straight, in a very old path that connected, St. Sulpice with Poimes. Then I heard this poppy following, a yorky. I did not wanted he to follow me, but he went up half of the 70 degrees Hill. I raised my walking sticks to scared him, but he continue. Suddenly, he made the cutes sound, I looked back, laid on the floor with his legs over his head, he said: good bye amigo. I have to keep going. I was short of water. After 30 minutes ascending, a cross showed up, for the lost padre.

Just calm down, keep going… there are worst days. After death birds, and being lost, what else. I arrived to Poimes. A town of 6 houses. A farmer with out a shirt running his old car around the two street village came to my aid. He offered me water, but his house was the last in the village. I kept walking, when I heard two senior talking. I called over the gate, and they filled my bottle of water twice. I drank the first one before I closed my eyes, and they refilled it again . The farmer was waiting for me with another bottle of water. He was so proud of his “Aubrac”. We chatted for 10 minutes. I treaded my hat, which I used once, and was too hot to wear. He was so happy. He was concern that I will made it safe. He told me that one of the bells at the abbey in Conques had collapsed, and there were many helicopters earlier in town. I started walking again. It was a deep descending on the road, and a tree just felt on the street. I had been on the road approximately for one hour, when I had to make a turn. There were people running bikes on the plato, when I ask an old man the direction to Conques,, and of curse he sent me the wrong way. I walked 25 minutes in the opposite direction, when a snake, yes , a snake bit my walking stick, by the river. The river was murky, and stayed that way today too. I almost collapsed. My legs could not continue. That snaked remains me of so many fears that I have. The symbol in the church
, and our humanness. I arrived to Conques, 4 hours behind. A “pelerin” from Lyon, saw me arriving, and invited me to have a Monaco. Love them! She told me to go after to the “gite” of the monks. I decided to go into the abbey church first. When they just started the evening prayer.

It took all burdens away from me. I just cried.

After prayers I went the “gite” of the abbey. The old monks chambers, now are communal space for the “pelerins”. I was not surprised with the village. It was charm, I cannot take that, but it has been converted in a shopping mall for travelers, and people in the region. There were some art galleries, but nothing local. I was disappointed that I did not see Ghislain in Conques. He sponsored me for this trip,and he is from here. Please se Picts on Instagram.

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Espalion-Golinhac

Two different regions. The people more hospitable could not be. Leaving Espalion was easy, very flat land, until I passed the Roman Church. It was a hill category “Red”, which means after reading the map this afternoon, very difficult. These two walking sticks made my day. I have to move my back forward, to balance the backpack. So many times I had to rise my legs over 12 inches to pass the up hill rocks. I just took one step at the time being sure that my feet where in whole contact with the ground. Last night rain changed the terrain, mud and rocks was a mess. I decided to use my sandals today, and believe it or not, they had better traction with the mixed ground. I ended all wet, like jumping to the Ohio river after finishing the iron man on rocks! It has been interesting for me to know my own body. Thanks God, no back pains, or other upper body troubles. The feet and toes are another story, but I just keep going, everybody else is in the same situation. Many of the people is returning home. Here in France they walk El Camino, one week “etap” a year. Many take the bus back home after three-seven days.

These compression socks are magical, they took my feet back to normal, right know only my left foot is inflated. Rubbing them with olive oil and arnica every afternoon has been good too.

Today I walk 3/4 of the time on the road, next to the Lot river, then it all was ascending. I am at Golinhac tonight. The campground has an amazing view with a pool. I did not have time for it. I just took a shower and washed the cloths.

They offer all kind of opportunities for staying here. Camping area, family chalets, rooms for two, communal rooms for 6, restaurant with bar, and a games building.

I ate in the restaurant. I had a steak and frites. Talking about steaks here. There are juicy, fresh, and tasty! The cows are grass fed in France. They move them from field to field every day. I have seen it in the morning, before walkers take the paths. I was in the middle of the changing a couple days ago, because I start to walk at 6am every day. It was not fun, especially when there is an ox in the middle of 50 cows. I just walked up the hill, and kept distance.

Tomorrow I will walk 21 km to Conques. It is the town of Ghislain. He was the director of the Speed Museum, and former parishioner.

Today my mind was playing with childhood songs and games. I laughed a lot. What memories! I was thinking, if the new generation of children in my home village still playing them or has everything be forgotten.

It is good to be here. There is time to think and reflect. No television, no computer. Just enjoying myself in the silence of the walk. Wait! Today, a bird from the distance broke the silence. But his harmony, matched my speed as I walk. It keep going like for 10 minutes, until I have to descend another hill.

The World Cup in France

At the village of Chely d’Aubrac, I arrived to the communal “gite”. David Vigoreaux invited me for a beer at the bar next door, and another pelerin joined us the conversation. We shared pictures, when I said I loved the wild flowers this morning, and I showed the pictures. He said to me, hold on, he went to the bar and brought me a liquor made with the flowers. I loved it. It run though all my body at the first sip. (You can see pictures, when you click on my instagram account on this page.)

There were many challenges yesterday: cows, oxen, gates to open, gates to close, more rocks, and thorns. No much water to drink, and my feet looked like turkey legs from the state fair.
I thought all day that we should have a hike trail like this at home. Starting a St. Joseph, of course, visiting all the city parks, with challenging paths like the ones here, oh yes the real deal! Rocks, creeks, cows, goats, hills- big hills, ascending descending… from Louisville to The Abbey of Gethsemane in Nelson County. Visiting each one of the big parks in the city, passing by 4th and Chesnut (Merton revelation site). And visiting Bullitt Co, Berhain Forest, Spencer County by the lake, and hiring toward Nelson Co to Thomas Merton Resting Place. The “pelerins” must visit get a stamp in each 20 km at a sacred place that at the abbey the can receive the final note. It is a crazy idea, but we have all the infrastructure in place.

Oh, the World Cup! We met at a local bar in the center of the plaza with the rooster monument, the whole village met there. It was too small, but a lot of fun. We cheered every goal. The little bar was shaking the a couple times you can hear the glasses of beer breaking on the floor. Kids played all around, all young couples in the village. The old ones watched from home. French flags were in display from the windows, and fireworks like ladybugs were seen during the night. The game was at 5pm.

There was a concert at 9pm. A choir from Quebec, Canada was in town. I told all my new friends that I need to go back to the “gite”. I needed to massage my swollen feet. I felt sleep. No concert for me that night.

Rain in the morning

It was a sunny day in the village. My alarm rang at 5:30am. I was already walking by 6:00am. I wore my rain coat everyday, because the temperature is low. after three up hill km I take out, but today was different it started raining after the second hill.

I like to leave early, because by 10am the faster walker are already passing by me. Four of them passed me so fast that I thought they were running. Three km later I passed them. They did not have a rain coat. They were under a big bush out of the rocky path. I though: always be prepared before any situation. It is better to drill any situation, what if?

The town of Aumont-Aubrac was covered in flies. But of course they have the best fresh cheese for “aligot”. Any Restaurant in Louisville should have this. I love it! I stayed above the restaurant that created it. And of course, I must ate there.

I concelebrated mass that evening there. To my surprised, it has been the second time that the priest was from Africa. Let’s be realistic here, the Church is changing to be more Catholic-universal, and that is good.

Today I leave Nasbinals. A small village of 300 people, but they know how to have fun. I thought that last night they were are burning the Catholic Church down. For the celebration of the Bastille, they set all the fireworks in front of the church. It was a street party. Look at my Instagram on the blog. We danced till late, and they had good beer.

The two, two! Priests of the village were at the party. The senior was from Paris, and had decided to has a more hermit life. He spoke English very well. The young priest was from Monaco, who is a missionary in Asia. Then he comes every weekend to help the rural parish. He spoke perfect Spanish, and we all had a good time.

I am now at St. Chely of Aubrac. Thanks to David Vigoreaux, a banker from Paris, that motivated me in the last 2 kms.

Today was all descending. Do you remember when Peter wanted to stay at the top of the mountain? I can tell you He did not find so many stones the size of what I found. Again, I did not panic. I just took one at the time. It is taking me 3kms/hour. I can see people dancing on the stones, but I am taking it easy. It is a long way to Compostela.

It is all about St. Joseph Steeples

This morning I started the day at 5:30am. As I love the albergue, three goats greeted me. As I turned by the St. James’ Cross of the village, hundreds of bells stopped the silence of the village. I said OMG, is this poor village can pay for all these bells, can we reach our goal for our Save the Steeples Campaign? It was not until 500 meters in the wood when I recognized that it was a herd of Holy Cows in the forest. It was a great morning with many ups and downs trails, well that is life! After struggling going down in one of them, God sent me a reminder, what is difficult look ahead. A man from the village was running up the hill. He was in his 60s, and he made it looked that it was a piece of cake. You will not believe how may energy arose. I was fast in the walk, but careful with the rocks. Three more km, and the wetted-paths arrived. And let me add, full of cow manure. No place to go, just learn to go through @&$$!

Lunch came, and I shared my piece of cured ham with three ladies from France: Bridget, Pascuala, and Marina. It was delightful. My French as the first day, lol, but we communicated well. There were faster walkers. When I arrived to my new village, they were ready having a beer at the first bar.

Every thing is getting pricey. The Le Puy Rout is a turistic destination in south France. Families come together and walk a section, therefore they block all the hostels. The true walkers do not have a place to stay or they fill up early.

What about church? Do you think they have places for the “pelerins.” No way, they cleaned their hands like Pontius Pilate.

By now, I know you are curious of the spiritual aspect of this walk. I can tell you, it is very profound. So many questions, no answers. How don’t know how many rosaries I have said in the last three day, but I know I am one day ahead of my schedule.

Yesterday and Today

After walking 8 hours on a rocky ground, it was time to rest. Arriving to the village of Monistrol d’Allier, there were a hostel to stay. I decided to go to a campground by the river. I set my hamaca in a sunny warm afternoon, and I went to watch the soccer game England / Croatia. I went to bed around 11pm, when by 1 am the temperatures dropped under 50 degrees. Yes, I was waken up by the cold weather. Really cold! Every one was sleeping, I went to the laundry area looking for a warm space. There my feet spotted a warm floor were I decided to sit all night, not sleep, a lot to think, an laughing mind. My alarm rung at 5:30 am. It was time to walk. What a precious village. Leaving town, the old baker open the doors of the store. By the smell I knew it was the best bread. Hundreds of bread to choose from. He made all without help. I bought a loaf, an apple, a banana, and cured ham. I sat down outside the store, prepared a sandwich. A choir of cats appeared to great me, with of course, they broke my heart. They sat down too, and we had breakfast.

It is all ups and downs, just like life. As I walk into the path, there are thousands of rocks waiting for me. I said, oh God who put them there. I did not blame anybody, and decided to look up and enjoy the cliff, the river, the beautiful bridge designed by Effiel.
This was a spectacular walk, the flowers, the views, the people, the ancient church of Madeline inside the rock. It was 10 hours of joy, forget the blister on your feet.

At my new arrival site, there were no room. The place was well advertised on the way. I cannot called from my cell, because I did not know France code. The lady called another place: Le Boulesux nains in Lajo. It was not espected, but Rachel has a jewl out of the path, that I recommend every one to come. She goes to the path and pick “pelerins “ with no place to stay. It was a great night. She offered me a beer, which I said, hell yeah!,in English. No worries she cannot speak English. She sent me to take a shower and relax. When my door open there was a table set for dinner with other guest, and the action begun. She served more than 5 dishes, which she cooked herself. All the vegetables came from her garden, which I discovered earlier when I hung my clothes to dry.

She ate with us: a banker, a magazine publisher, a math teacher, a psychiatric doctor that just graduated and the priest.

After diner she stamped my card, cured my blisters. Before going to bed she insisted to take food from the fridge for El Camino today.

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This is finished!

• Yes, I know that we all know who said that. But it was my first day. Long day, I walked for 8 hours in a very challenging terrain. Hills, rocks of all sizes, vegetation covering the path, only 2 sheeps at the distance and many cows to call, Rosa! That was we called our cows growing up. The Mass of sending this morning was presided by two joyful wonderful priests from Africa. The music was angelical, when you have all the nun of the cloister next door sing. The most powerful incident after the priest blessed the pilgrims was when the floor of the Cathedral opened for the pilgrims start the first section of the walk. I am now sitting outside the hostel waiting for the operator to arrive. I may not have a room here, but they have a camping area to put my “hamaca”.

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This is finished!

• Yes, I know that we all know who said that. But it was my first day. Long day, I walked for 8 hours in a very challenging terrain. Hills, rocks of all sizes, vegetation covering the path, only 2 sheeps at the distance and many cows to call, Rosa! That was we called our cows growing up. The Mass of sending this morning was presided by two joyful wonderful priests from Africa. The music was angelical, when you have all the nun of the cloister next door sing. The most powerful incident after the priest blessed the pilgrims was when the floor of the Cathedral opened for the pilgrims start the first section of the walk. I am now sitting outside the hostel waiting for the operator to arrive. I may not have a room here, but they have a camping area to put my “hamaca”.

The best place to start for the Steeples!

Just at two days for my departure, I am overwhelm with fears of joy. Only God knows where I am going on this journey. I trust Him!