León, Spain
It was only 17 km on my plan for today, but because I finished by 9:00am I went for 20 more km. I feel good about it, because I will take three days off in Lyon to visit with Gelo, Marjorie, and Luisito. I married them at St. Joseph, and I baptized the baby in Madrid. Now they are coming from Madrid to spend the weekend with me. I am looking forward to see them tomorrow.
I had a good sleep in El Burgo Ranero, therefore I woke up by 5am. I was walking by 5:20am. There was a young man in front of me trying to get out of town, but he was going in the wrong direction. I follow the dark street. Five minutes later he found the way, and walked behind me for 10 km.
The sky was so active
that I turned my light off. It was a new night screen. Many falling stars were rushing through the sky. No cars, no people in front of me, only a train was rushing through the sunflowers fields next to me. The trail was parallel to the road. Beautiful trees have been planted next to the trail for the past 100km. They were planted 3 years ago looks like, but they are going to give a great shade to the peregrines in the future.
My plan was to stop at Mansilla de Mulas, but it was so early that after coffee and toasts, I kept going to León.
Many people has died walking el Camino. Memorial are left behind as recordatories. Before León there was a significant one. It was at the highest point Alto del Potillo. It was a woman from El Paso, TX. Because there is a long fence, the peregrinos have started the make wood crosses on it. There are hundreds of them.
As I started my descending to León, I found Nicolas, an architect from Paris, making a cross. The elements that he was using where not working together. He was frustrated. When he got all the elements: wood, plastic, fire, to work; the cross just broke. I just looked around, and saw a thin piece of chicken wire. I tided it around the cross, and it worked fine. He wanted it to hang from a pine tree over the city of León. But he was not so tall. At this time Nuria and other two pelegrinos that have been talking during el Camino arrived. One of them offered to rise him on his shoulders, and he hung the cross. I took picts.
The more powerful experience was not on making the cross, but what he revealed to me. He knew that I was a priest, and it was his third time walking el Camino. He started asking me about what I think about a person committing suicide. It was the most compassionate conversation I have had in years. When he said: the first Camino was all adventure, the second was all about friends new people, but this third one is all about silence. I have not word, I can hear the people talking to me, I have nothing to think in my head. It is all silence! I just said: and how silence speaks? Then the cross was finished.
Now I think, how many people is living in this silence? How are they taking it? I have always been afraid of silence. At the seminary they offer silence retreats at the end of the semester. It was not my thing. But walking yesterday morning under the lighted sky, in the silent trail, there was something there speaking to me. We have a sacred power to overcome fears by the attitude we bear in our hearts.
It was time to run. We 5 were going down. Nuria looked at me and said. Well padre we are going down, you love to run down the hills. I gave her a big smile, and run down the hill.
At the entrance of the suburb was a convent of nuns with St. Joseph chapel at the door. I went in and drank a beer. Nicolas bought a plate of chicken with bread and shared it with me. Nuria and the other two kept walking to León.
Nicolas left, I did not see him again till later last night walking with a bunch of people in front of the cathedral.
I reached Nuria and the other two. We had a great time greeting people by the streets: “The indifference of the city.” No one would say good afternoon to us. It was till we arrived to the city wall, when a group of young people passing by us I greeted with: afternoon jóvenes , and all of them greeted us back. I said: there is future and hope in León. Nuria and our Teo friend clapped and laughed.
We are walked together to the Benedictine Sisters albergue. Nuria stayed there. I went to eat across the street. The other two peregrinos continue their journey.
León is a magnificent city. It is full of action. People everywhere. All the business to capacity. I will stay here till Monday resting.
I went to get something to eat last night, and every establishment was full. Therefore, I went to get a baguette with ham iberico, and manchego cheese, and ate walking by the streets. I stopped at a bar for a drink across the Cathedral when!!!
Luisa arrived! From nowhere Luisa pulled a chair and said: do you think that I don’t know you? C’mon, I just arrived to town, I said. I think she was messing up with me, but when she said, are you from Puerto Rico, right? My heart started to feel a heartache! I just did not have a clue how she knew so much about me. I thought she was reading my mind.
Luisa was in her 80’s. She owns two blocks of buildings across the cathedral. Her husband owned the electric equipment store at the corner, now her son runs it. She talked to me for over two hours. She knew every secret in town. It was magical. Perfect for a Garcia Marquez’ novel.
She got the Puerto Rico from my accent, as I ordered my drink. She just love to talk to people in the square and enjoy the evenings. I was her date for the night. I had a great time.
Another peregrino from South Africa, in his second Camino this year, joined me and invited me for a drink. He is a collector of first editions books. We had a great conversation about life and joy. I was so please when he said: I enjoy to talk to people that always bring joy and happiness to others, and you have that gift. I had found everything on the way.
It was getting late and cold. I walk back to my place. I got jealous to see everyone eating ice cream so late and cold night that I bought one too. Walnuts was the flavor. In addition I bought a Saint Isidore Pastry. Yum! Yum!