It took me five days to reflect on the arrival to Santiago. It was a very emotional end. I run the last 100 meters with my peregrinos friends. Tears of joy came out of my eyes. I could not believed it after 1515 km! I remember screaming 59 days, and embracing my group of friends.

We celebrated day and night. We stayed in a great apartment in the historical distric. It was a colorful day. Many dancers and music groups wearing area costumes and mask of Galicia came to celebrate to Santiago the Nativity of the Blessed Mother.

Santiago is a city of arrivals and returnings, but a city of eternal friends. It is what Christ is about! A human family reaching out all the strangers on the road. All peoples come together as one! For two days, I looked for friends that stayed behind, and those who arrived earlier where looking for me. It was an encounter every second.

I met a man at the Compostela’s office that was so glad to meet me, because he heard so many stories about Padre in the Camino. I was so blessed to be part of so many peoples lives, and they were part of my life. I felt refreshed! We all cared for each other.

The time to say good bye (aka. We will see each other again…) to Mario, Alejandro, Gonzalo, Lola y Marcos came. I may go to Madrid this weekend. I hope to see many friends there.

Only Dani, Ana, and me continue the three days journey to Finisterra. The espectacular sea views from the hills inspired me to continue. There were 90 more kilometers to discover. We departed earlier under a dense fog. Arriving to Negreira, we entered a new dimension of reality. From the middle of nowhere two single line of people (around 25) possed by what kind of spirits? we don’t know, passed by us. It was the most spooky moment of El Camiño. Now we were on the Pagans Way. It is how is called by the locals. As they passed by the three of us we felt chills in the bones. Their faces, their clothes, there way of walking was, the way they looked to us, scared us so much that we walked almost 10km in one hour. We still talking today… what was that?

Vilaserio was supposed to be our salvation. When we arrived to the municipal albergue, it was an abandoned place with mattresses on the floor, and not water, but was cleaned. There was not a person in charge. An Australian young woman was coming out of the building, when we arrived. We walked back to the village and stayed in a nice place, where we ate good.

Ana decided to teach yoga, and she had three students. I watched from the distance.

The next morning was so dark. It was like we passsed hundreds of times by the same place in circles. Currents of warm and cold air hit our faces that we could not understand what was happening with nature. Dani and the Australian girl stayed behind, and Ana lead the way. I just followed. Entering in a small village a dog came from no where and surprised us with his barking. We pull up our sticks, and kept walking.

It was a beautiful sunrise by the corn fields. It was not in the map. It looked that it will be all flat, but we found many high mountains to hike. There were not a place to eat till Lagos. There we were received in a wonderful tinny restaurant, and we ate everything.

Few minutes later Dani arrived with a face… We laughed for ever, after listening to his story. He walked into the house next to the restaurant with all the restaurant signs. There he asked for the menu, when a man coming out from a room told him that it was not a restaurant, but his house. He was already in the kitchen table.

It was a long day. After 25 km, I stopped at St. Peter the martyr for fresh water. It was at the top of the mountain before Cee. There I found forest workers sleeping on the grass, and two German ladies filling their bottles. The water was so cold that I drink a bottle there.

We met a great character on the way. His name was Chris, from England. He is in his 70-80’s. He loves to walk on El Camino. He walks with his hands crossed, but his legs go in turbo position. He was fast. I only passed him, when I was running down the hills. He wanted to walk with us as a group, but that was impossible at his speed. He will be waiting for us at some points. I arrived to Cee before him, it was 3km down hill. I run it all! We lost him the next morning. By now we think he is by Paris.

Our day at Cee was out of this world. I waited more of half hour for Ana and Dani at a local bar with the best chicken wings in Spain. No like Spring Street Bar, but almost there. There was a group of young people at a table not too far from me. I was mesmerized by their conversation. It was all about their devotions to God and the Blessed Mother. When to bring flowers to church, and how much money they should give as a donation. I could not believed it. They knew all the feast days and local church celebrations in the area. They talked about the parishes picnics. And they all knew very well the Senegalese priest with 10 parishes in the area.

Ana, and Dani arrived, and we ordered more tapas. When… Adrian arrived! He was the best host of town. He is running for mayor, for a party that does not exist. But he got our votes! He made us buy an octopus from the local fishermen. He took it to a local restaurant that prepared it for us. We had a great dinner that evening. As the octopus was prepared, he took us to the beach. The water was cold, but he warmed us with his great personality and humor. I took a long nap on the sand.

Fisterra was our last destination. KM 0 was waiting for us. I enjoyed the long runs, and the beach breeze. I took the coast road. At some point I got out of the walkers path. I asked information to an old couple walking on the road. They told me that the trail was up by the other side, but they told me to stay on the road, because it will take me to the same place. I hit the trail again. It was like going down a straight cliff. I could not run it. It cannot describe how difficult it was. Reaching the end, the beach smile to us, and invited us to take a bath. I paused to enjoy the beauty. You can walk next to the beach or continue the path. I stayed on the path by the shade. Arriving to Fenisterra, I contacted Dani and Ana. They were behind. I wanted to be sure if they want to reach with me KM 0 or they wanted to do it alone. I stopped at KM 2. They wanted to walk together. It was a very powerful moment. I have no words! We embraced each other. The tourists clap their hands and congratulated us. They started to ask so many questions about our journey. It was 1605 Km behind, and so many ahead! We walked to the cliff, where one more step could not be taken. I found a place to cry. I stayed there for so long. We later sat together to laugh and cry.

It was time to come down and find a place to spend the night. We got the Finesterra note, and had lunch in an amazing restaurant run by locals with fresh fish. Next door was a small grocery store where we bought pasta and clams for dinner.

Praia Mar de Fóra, was the beach west of Finisterra. It was behind our albergue. We went there to see the sunset. It was the best act created by God that I have witnessed. Because there were not so many people there, we jumped in God’s creation! After sunset, we returned to prepared dinner. It was delicious. We bought three bottles of white wine for 4.50! The best wine ever!!! It was about 11pm, when we finished dinner, and decided to visit town at night. We had a great time with other pelegrinos that we have met before.

We returned in the morning to Santiago. Dani had to jump into a taxi as soon as he got out of the bus to go to the airport. Ana and me went to the center to get an albergue for the night. Next day, I had to go to train station at 5am.

I am in Madrid now. The past few days here have been very emotional. The people, the places, the memories. Reflecting back El Camino is not an easy experience.

I thank Mario who opened his house for me here. Tomorrow I go to Murcia to visit Ana, and Thursday to Cartagena to visit Lola.

Arzúa: Party Time

It was all going to Melide to eat the best octopus. It was! Our great group left Palas de Rei around 7:30am, because we wanted to be in Melide for lunch. The octopus man was on his spot by the window. He would pull the octopus out of the hot water and give you a sample. Your reaction is, stop and order a larger plate! We stayed there 3 hours eating, talking, singing, and testing good white wine: Ribeiro.

On these three hours, we have an encounter we all the peregrinos of the past. It was a time to share our joys and sorrows of el Camiño. The time there was precious.

After Melide, I went to Arzúa. Danny from Mallorca followed me. At some point he disappeared. Later, I discovered that he jumped in the river, when he walked to the albergue with wet cloths. It was ridiculous funny. Gonzalo, Alex, and Mario arrived later according to their particular joys of life. These trio of friends is amazing!!! I am so glad to be a new friend in their life. Where is Marcos and Lola? We did not have a clue until later. Lola found the way, but Marcos could not find his phone charger and went back to Melide. He arrived after I have started the Puerto Rican dinner of the night: Arroz con habichuelas y lomo. All of them had been singing the song: La Gozadera. Where it says: the rice and beans dish is a gift from Puerto Rico.

We were 12 at the table. The seven of us, and 5 Italians that have kept our steps. It was a miracle that all tasted like in Puerto Rico without the ingredients. Thanks God I find great spices at the local grocery store. My satisfaction, they ate it all!!!

It was a night that I will never forget. We are at one day from Santiago, but we’re going to divide it in two. Our rival is going to be Sept 8 on the Feast of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Sarria – Portomarin – Palas de Rei

Galicia is an enchanted region of Spain with a Celtic tradition. The mountains, and rivers bring a different dimension to El Camino.

Chemim in France, Camino in northern Spain, now I entered the Camiño in Galicia.

It can sound hard to many lovers of El Camino, but El Camino ends in Sarria. After walking 1400 km, I can say that. I am so happy that I stopped in Samos to see their monastery. The last reflection for a long spiritual journey.

Alejandro, Mario, Marcos, Gonzalo and Lola have brought me great moments of joy that I will never forget. What a group! All doing the Camiño searching for a moment where life is revealed itself to them. Every second, every minute, every hour, our encounter has had a heavenly intercession.

Why Sarria is the end of El Camino? Arriving to Sarria I was suffocated by tourism. Buses, taxis, people every where. After 15 km walking and see people with clean shoes, invisible backpacks, dropped everywhere. They were dropped in the city, in every intersection, in El Camiño. Taxis waiting for people just 100 meters from where they were dropped to go 10 km up el Camiño to continue. It just take away the essence of El Camiño.

Today, after 20 km walking from Portomarin to Palas de Rei, a bus passed me full of tourists and dropped them 125 meters in front of me. I kept my speed but because they are so many, they did not care to let you keep your speed. Many times I had to say: excuse me. It is critical when you have been walking all day (30-40km) and you need a bed to sleep. Those in taxis and buses are picked up before the villages, and then dropped by the albergues. I have been lucky to find a place to sleep, but I have seen others with no such a luck. They have to continue walking to the next village or pay for an expensive place.

Gonzalo told me today that I should talk today about the beauty of El Camiño experience, but the above is a reality too. Many times today as I walked and run the hills of Galicia, and I had to fight this in my mind. Tourists were a negative distraction. No everyone that say to you, I did El Camino has done it. No from taxis, no from buses. It is not only 100km. It is a life!

O Cebreiro to Samos

O Cebreiro will give you the most espectacular view of El Camino. It was a village in the clouds. Saying that implies that this morning I was descending for almost 20 km. I run all the descending with Marcos. Oscar, Fernando, and Oscar stayed behind. Only Gonzalo, Alex, and Mario kept behind us, but made it to our albergue at Samos. We took the alternative route that would take us to the older Benedictine monastery in Spain.

Galicia is a beautiful Region. The mountains, and the natural terrain make the area a perfect walk. Running this are was a perfect event.

Arriving to Samos by a hill, you will have a awesome view of the monastery. The walls of rock made through the years introduce you to the valley.

We went to the monastery but at the wrong time. Therefore, we went to the monastery albergue. It opened at 1pm.

A “hospitalero” from Montana received us, and took our information. It was a “donativo” shelter. I put my donativo in the box, and proceeded to my bed. When I moved the pillow in my bed, bed bugs run away. Marcos experience was worst. He found thicks. We looked each other, and walk out. We told the hospitalero that we will be back, but we decided to found another place to stay.

Gonzalo, Mario, and Alex where arriving to town, and heard our story. We all stayed in a good place across the street of the monastery. It had a nice view. The five of us went to eat lunch in a great place. If you want more they will serve you more, at the same price. This restaurant is in my top list of el Camino. We all took a nap till 6pm.

Before dinner, we went to the next door bar. The topic of the conversation was the sacraments of baptism and confessions. I ended giving a quick class of both sacraments. I was amazed by their reception to listen and understanding. I truly enjoyed their companionship.

For dinner a Italian man invited all the guest to eat a great Italian dinner. We just paid for drinks.

It was a great night of conversations, dinner, beer, and wine.

Villafranca del Bierzo

Hills of red grapes welcomed me to the village. I was tempted to taste the grapes, and I did! They were sweet, sweet, and sweet. The wine growers were working in the fields. It was like Tuscany in Spain.

The beautiful mountains of Galicia served as a natural drapery in the distance. The houses’ style was more Mediterranean than from the north of Spain. It gave me a flash back to Italy.

Marcos and me had a great time running down the hills. We are fast walker, therefore, we always arrive early to the albergue.

There are merchants that visit the small villages with products. They horn loud that people can know about their arrival. They are frequently selling bread or produce. Today we were surprise to see a man selling all kind of fresh fish and calamari. I had to take a picture of it. It was a beautiful presentation to the costumers.

Villafranca was a medieval village with a beach. The locals have created a beautiful beach at the river. Hundred of people and walkers met there in the afternoon to enjoy the refreshing waters after a long walk.

The real test for all walkers was after Villafranca. After ascending between mountains on the road, we were challenged to reach the highest point of El Camino in Spain. Marcos, Oscar, and me started walking at 6:15 am. Marcos and me at one point started running that Oscar was left behind. The ascension to O Cebreiro was brutal. We had breakfast in the village Ambasmestas before the ascension. It was a real test of endurance. Marcos was 100 meters in front of me at all time. I arrived around noon, and Oscar follow. He got the first blisters today on his second day.

The albergue opened at 1pm. Marcos went out for lunch, and I stayed at the door of the albergue getting some rest.

Javier and Fernando from Madrid, Oscar and me went for lunch at an amazing restaurant . The food was delicious.

In the afternoon I went to mass, and enjoyed the evening with a group of Italians that know how to have fun playing guitar and singing.