It took me five days to reflect on the arrival to Santiago. It was a very emotional end. I run the last 100 meters with my peregrinos friends. Tears of joy came out of my eyes. I could not believed it after 1515 km! I remember screaming 59 days, and embracing my group of friends.
We celebrated day and night. We stayed in a great apartment in the historical distric. It was a colorful day. Many dancers and music groups wearing area costumes and mask of Galicia came to celebrate to Santiago the Nativity of the Blessed Mother.
Santiago is a city of arrivals and returnings, but a city of eternal friends. It is what Christ is about! A human family reaching out all the strangers on the road. All peoples come together as one! For two days, I looked for friends that stayed behind, and those who arrived earlier where looking for me. It was an encounter every second.
I met a man at the Compostela’s office that was so glad to meet me, because he heard so many stories about Padre in the Camino. I was so blessed to be part of so many peoples lives, and they were part of my life. I felt refreshed! We all cared for each other.
The time to say good bye (aka. We will see each other again…) to Mario, Alejandro, Gonzalo, Lola y Marcos came. I may go to Madrid this weekend. I hope to see many friends there.
Only Dani, Ana, and me continue the three days journey to Finisterra. The espectacular sea views from the hills inspired me to continue. There were 90 more kilometers to discover. We departed earlier under a dense fog. Arriving to Negreira, we entered a new dimension of reality. From the middle of nowhere two single line of people (around 25) possed by what kind of spirits? we don’t know, passed by us. It was the most spooky moment of El Camiño. Now we were on the Pagans Way. It is how is called by the locals. As they passed by the three of us we felt chills in the bones. Their faces, their clothes, there way of walking was, the way they looked to us, scared us so much that we walked almost 10km in one hour. We still talking today… what was that?
Vilaserio was supposed to be our salvation. When we arrived to the municipal albergue, it was an abandoned place with mattresses on the floor, and not water, but was cleaned. There was not a person in charge. An Australian young woman was coming out of the building, when we arrived. We walked back to the village and stayed in a nice place, where we ate good.
Ana decided to teach yoga, and she had three students. I watched from the distance.
The next morning was so dark. It was like we passsed hundreds of times by the same place in circles. Currents of warm and cold air hit our faces that we could not understand what was happening with nature. Dani and the Australian girl stayed behind, and Ana lead the way. I just followed. Entering in a small village a dog came from no where and surprised us with his barking. We pull up our sticks, and kept walking.
It was a beautiful sunrise by the corn fields. It was not in the map. It looked that it will be all flat, but we found many high mountains to hike. There were not a place to eat till Lagos. There we were received in a wonderful tinny restaurant, and we ate everything.
Few minutes later Dani arrived with a face… We laughed for ever, after listening to his story. He walked into the house next to the restaurant with all the restaurant signs. There he asked for the menu, when a man coming out from a room told him that it was not a restaurant, but his house. He was already in the kitchen table.
It was a long day. After 25 km, I stopped at St. Peter the martyr for fresh water. It was at the top of the mountain before Cee. There I found forest workers sleeping on the grass, and two German ladies filling their bottles. The water was so cold that I drink a bottle there.
We met a great character on the way. His name was Chris, from England. He is in his 70-80’s. He loves to walk on El Camino. He walks with his hands crossed, but his legs go in turbo position. He was fast. I only passed him, when I was running down the hills. He wanted to walk with us as a group, but that was impossible at his speed. He will be waiting for us at some points. I arrived to Cee before him, it was 3km down hill. I run it all! We lost him the next morning. By now we think he is by Paris.
Our day at Cee was out of this world. I waited more of half hour for Ana and Dani at a local bar with the best chicken wings in Spain. No like Spring Street Bar, but almost there. There was a group of young people at a table not too far from me. I was mesmerized by their conversation. It was all about their devotions to God and the Blessed Mother. When to bring flowers to church, and how much money they should give as a donation. I could not believed it. They knew all the feast days and local church celebrations in the area. They talked about the parishes picnics. And they all knew very well the Senegalese priest with 10 parishes in the area.
Ana, and Dani arrived, and we ordered more tapas. When… Adrian arrived! He was the best host of town. He is running for mayor, for a party that does not exist. But he got our votes! He made us buy an octopus from the local fishermen. He took it to a local restaurant that prepared it for us. We had a great dinner that evening. As the octopus was prepared, he took us to the beach. The water was cold, but he warmed us with his great personality and humor. I took a long nap on the sand.
Fisterra was our last destination. KM 0 was waiting for us. I enjoyed the long runs, and the beach breeze. I took the coast road. At some point I got out of the walkers path. I asked information to an old couple walking on the road. They told me that the trail was up by the other side, but they told me to stay on the road, because it will take me to the same place. I hit the trail again. It was like going down a straight cliff. I could not run it. It cannot describe how difficult it was. Reaching the end, the beach smile to us, and invited us to take a bath. I paused to enjoy the beauty. You can walk next to the beach or continue the path. I stayed on the path by the shade. Arriving to Fenisterra, I contacted Dani and Ana. They were behind. I wanted to be sure if they want to reach with me KM 0 or they wanted to do it alone. I stopped at KM 2. They wanted to walk together. It was a very powerful moment. I have no words! We embraced each other. The tourists clap their hands and congratulated us. They started to ask so many questions about our journey. It was 1605 Km behind, and so many ahead! We walked to the cliff, where one more step could not be taken. I found a place to cry. I stayed there for so long. We later sat together to laugh and cry.
It was time to come down and find a place to spend the night. We got the Finesterra note, and had lunch in an amazing restaurant run by locals with fresh fish. Next door was a small grocery store where we bought pasta and clams for dinner.
Praia Mar de Fóra, was the beach west of Finisterra. It was behind our albergue. We went there to see the sunset. It was the best act created by God that I have witnessed. Because there were not so many people there, we jumped in God’s creation! After sunset, we returned to prepared dinner. It was delicious. We bought three bottles of white wine for 4.50! The best wine ever!!! It was about 11pm, when we finished dinner, and decided to visit town at night. We had a great time with other pelegrinos that we have met before.
We returned in the morning to Santiago. Dani had to jump into a taxi as soon as he got out of the bus to go to the airport. Ana and me went to the center to get an albergue for the night. Next day, I had to go to train station at 5am.
I am in Madrid now. The past few days here have been very emotional. The people, the places, the memories. Reflecting back El Camino is not an easy experience.
I thank Mario who opened his house for me here. Tomorrow I go to Murcia to visit Ana, and Thursday to Cartagena to visit Lola.